T-Shirt Fabric Guide: Blends, Yarn, Knit & GSM
A tee's hand, drape and shrinkage — and which washes and prints it can take — are mostly decided at the fabric stage. This Premium Wear Works guide covers 12 fiber blends, yarn types, 8 knit structures, GSM weights and finishing, so you can pick the right fabric direction before sampling.
Values are typical industry ranges; final specs are confirmed by sampling and test reports.
What makes a tee feel the way it does?
These five steps follow the real production order, from fiber to finished fabric. Each choice limits the next — a polyester blend, for example, turns two-tone when garment dyed.
- 01FiberCotton, polyester, rayon / modal, spandex, hemp. Sets moisture handling, hand feel and how the fabric can be dyed.
- 02YarnCombed or carded; ring-spun, compact or open-end; yarn count. Sets surface finish, strength and pilling.
- 03KnitSingle jersey, rib, interlock, piqué, French terry. Sets stretch, body and surface texture.
- 04WeightGrams per square meter (GSM). Sets structure, silhouette and season.
- 05FinishCompacting, enzyme, softening, mercerizing, garment dye, washes. Sets the final hand and size stability.
Which fiber blend fits your tee?
Ratios are by weight, the same way US fiber content labels are written. The bar shows each fiber's share; the dots rate how well the fabric suits a heavyweight streetwear tee.
- Cotton
- Polyester
- Rayon / modal / viscose
- Spandex
- Hemp / linen
- Recycled
Combed cotton
100%- Hand
- Soft, clean and breathable — gets better with every wash.
- Pros
- Takes color richly; works with garment dye, every wash and every print; the first choice for heavyweight.
- Limits
- Shrinks noticeably if not pre-shrunk; creases easily.
- Best for
- Heavyweight boxy, washed and printed core styles
Open-end cotton
100%- Hand
- Dry, rugged and slightly stiff.
- Pros
- Lower cost and lofty; strong vintage character after washing.
- Limits
- Lower strength; not as soft as ring-spun.
- Best for
- Vintage-washed heavyweight tees
Pima / Supima cotton
100%- Hand
- Fine, smooth, with a soft sheen.
- Pros
- Long fibers: stronger, pills less and holds color.
- Limits
- Highest cost; the Supima name requires a license.
- Best for
- Premium minimal essentials
Organic cotton
100%- Hand
- Close to regular combed cotton.
- Pros
- Meets brand sustainability goals.
- Limits
- Higher cost; public claims need a GOTS / OCS certified chain.
- Best for
- Sustainable capsules
CVC cotton / poly
60 / 40- Hand
- Soft, slightly slick.
- Pros
- Low shrinkage, resists creasing, lower cost.
- Limits
- Garment dye turns two-tone; DTG colors look weaker; less breathable.
- Best for
- Team wear, basics
TC poly / cotton
65 / 35- Hand
- Slick and cool.
- Pros
- Durable, quick-drying, low cost.
- Limits
- Poor moisture absorption, pills easily; reads less premium.
- Best for
- Workwear, event tees
Tri-blend
50 / 25 / 25- Hand
- Very soft and drapey, with a natural heather vintage look.
- Pros
- Light and close-fitting; heather colors look great straight away.
- Limits
- Hard to make heavyweight; not for aggressive washes; pills easily.
- Best for
- Lightweight fashion tees
Cotton / spandex
95 / 5- Hand
- Stretchy and close-fitting, with good recovery.
- Pros
- Holds its shape; suits slim fits.
- Limits
- Wrong for boxy fits; strong washes and chlorine damage spandex; heat processing must be controlled.
- Best for
- Slim fits, womenswear, athleisure
Cotton / modal
50 / 50- Hand
- Silky, cool, with a fluid drape.
- Pros
- Luxurious hand; absorbs moisture well.
- Limits
- Soft silhouette that won't hold structure; lower wet strength.
- Best for
- Premium layering, underwear
Bamboo viscose / cotton
70 / 30- Hand
- Soft, smooth and cool to the touch.
- Pros
- Gentle on skin, breathable.
- Limits
- Must be labeled “rayon / viscose made from bamboo”; not suited to heavyweight.
- Best for
- Underwear, summer styles
Hemp / cotton
55 / 45- Hand
- A little stiff at first, softens with every wash; visible texture.
- Pros
- Durable, with a natural, honest look.
- Limits
- Creases easily; higher cost; texture shows more in darker colors.
- Best for
- Natural and sustainable lines
Recycled cotton / rPET
50 / 50- Hand
- Soft, with a slightly grainy feel.
- Pros
- A sustainability story at a controlled cost.
- Limits
- Recycled cotton fibers are short and need blending; limited color range.
- Best for
- Sustainable lines
How does yarn change the same cotton?
Two 100% cotton fabrics can feel completely different depending on how the yarn is made. In the English cotton count (Ne, written “s”), a lower number means a thicker yarn and a heavier fabric.
Swipe sideways to see the full table →
| Yarn | How it's made | Hand & look | Pros | Trade-offs | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Combed | Short fibers and impurities are removed during combing | Clean, fine surface | Stronger, pills less, sharper print edges | Costs more than carded | Mid-to-premium core styles |
| Carded | Basic carding only; some short fibers remain | Slightly rough, a little fuzzy | Lower cost, plain honest texture | Pills and sheds more easily | Basics, budget lines |
| Ring-spun | Fibers are twisted continuously into yarn | Soft and strong | A balance of hand and strength | — | Most quality tees |
| Compact | Ring-spun with fibers compacted to cut hairiness | Smooth, with a slight sheen | Least pilling, highest strength, sharpest prints | Highest price | Minimal premium, fine-count styles |
| Open-end | Spun at high speed in a rotor | Dry, rugged, stiffer | Low cost and lofty; a dry vintage feel after washing | Lower strength; not as soft as ring-spun | Heavyweight vintage and washed styles |
| Slub | The yarn varies between thick and thin, regularly or at random | Irregular surface texture | Built-in vintage, handmade character | Uneven texture is the point — not for designs that need a flat surface | Vintage, casual styles |
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| Count (Ne) | Typical weight | Feel | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 16s | 260–320 GSM | Thick, structured, opaque | Heavyweight boxy streetwear |
| 20s / 21s | 200–260 GSM | Substantial, with some drape | Brand core basics, washed styles |
| 30s / 32s | 160–190 GSM | Light and soft | Regular basics, layering |
| 40s+ | 130–160 GSM | Fine, smooth, light | Minimal premium, summer styles |
These count-to-weight pairings are common combinations, not rules — knit structure and density can move the weight up or down for the same count.
How are the loops built?
Simplified loop diagrams that show how each structure differs. Not to scale.
Single jersey
Neat V-shaped loops on the face, horizontal loop arcs on the back. The most common tee structure, from light to heavyweight.
Used for: Almost every tee body
Slub jersey
The same jersey structure, but the yarn varies in thickness, creating an irregular vertical texture.
Used for: Vintage, casual styles
1×1 rib
Face and back loops alternate column by column — lots of crosswise stretch and good recovery.
Used for: Necklines, cuffs, slim fits
2×2 rib
Two face columns and two back columns alternate — deeper vertical ridges and more dimension than 1×1.
Used for: Wide rib necklines, hems
Interlock
Two 1×1 ribs knitted into each other, so both sides show V loops — thick, smooth and won't curl.
Used for: Smooth premium styles, kidswear
Piqué
Tuck stitches build a raised honeycomb or grain texture — breathable and crisp.
Used for: Polos, athleisure
French terry
Jersey on the face, rows of small loops on the back — soft, absorbent and substantial.
Used for: Heavyweight tees, hoodies, shorts
Waffle / thermal
A raised grid of cells that traps air — warm yet breathable.
Used for: Long sleeves, cold-weather layers
What GSM counts as heavyweight?
GSM is the weight in grams of one square meter of fabric. For streetwear brands, “heavyweight” usually starts at 240 GSM, and 280–300 GSM is currently the most common range for boxy fits.
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What happens after knitting?
Finishing sets the final hand, look and size stability. Effects are confirmed on a sample before bulk.
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| Finish | What it does | Effect | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compacting | Mechanically compresses the loops to release shrinkage in advance | More stable sizing — less shortening and widening after washing | A must for heavyweight cotton; still grade for finished-garment shrinkage |
| Bio-polish / enzyme | Enzymes remove surface fuzz | Cleaner, softer, less pilling | Overdoing it reduces strength |
| Softening | Silicone and other softeners | Slick, soft, drapey | Too much hurts absorbency and print adhesion |
| Mercerizing | Caustic treatment of the cotton fiber | Sheen, richer color, crisper hand | Mostly for fine-count premium styles; higher cost |
| Brushing / peaching | Raises the surface fibers | Warm, peach-skin softness | Reduces print sharpness |
| Garment dye | The garment is sewn first, then dyed whole | Soft color with natural tone shifts at the seams; a vintage look | Polyester content won't take the dye; shrinkage and shade must be confirmed by sampling |
| Pigment dye | Pigment bonds to the fiber surface | Fades with every wash for a worn-in look | Lower colorfastness than reactive dyes — that is the design effect |
| Acid · snow · stone wash | Oxidizers or pumice strip color locally | Irregular fading, mottled texture | Every piece varies; weakens the fabric — take care with lightweights and spandex blends |
Which fabrics work with which processes?
Check the process you want before you lock the fabric.
- Recommended
- Possible, with conditions
- Not recommended
Swipe sideways to see the full table →
| Fabric | Garment dye | Acid / stone wash | Pigment dye | Plastisol screen | Water-based / discharge | DTG | DTF | Sublimation | Embroidery |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 100% cotton (combed / open-end / long-staple) | Recommended | Recommended | Recommended | Recommended | Recommended | Recommended | Recommended | Not recommended | Recommended |
| CVC 60/40 | Possible, with conditions | Possible, with conditions | Possible, with conditions | Recommended | Possible, with conditions | Possible, with conditions | Recommended | Not recommended | Recommended |
| TC 65/35 | Not recommended | Not recommended | Not recommended | Recommended | Not recommended | Not recommended | Recommended | Possible, with conditions | Recommended |
| Tri-blend | Possible, with conditions | Not recommended | Possible, with conditions | Recommended | Possible, with conditions | Possible, with conditions | Recommended | Not recommended | Possible, with conditions |
| Cotton + spandex 95/5 | Recommended | Possible, with conditions | Recommended | Possible, with conditions | Recommended | Recommended | Recommended | Not recommended | Possible, with conditions |
| Cotton + modal / bamboo | Possible, with conditions | Not recommended | Possible, with conditions | Recommended | Possible, with conditions | Possible, with conditions | Recommended | Not recommended | Possible, with conditions |
| Hemp / cotton | Recommended | Possible, with conditions | Recommended | Recommended | Possible, with conditions | Possible, with conditions | Recommended | Not recommended | Recommended |
Sublimation only works on light-colored, high-polyester fabrics; discharge printing needs reactive-dyed 100% cotton; DTG gives the best color on 100% cotton.
Which tests back up a fabric spec?
Professional buyers use these measures to compare suppliers. The table lists the common test standards; pass levels are agreed per brand and fabric type, and confirmed by test reports.
Swipe sideways to see the full table →
| Measure | What it checks | Common standards |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric weight | Grams per square meter | ASTM D3776 |
| Dimensional change | Change in length and width after home laundering | AATCC 135 / 150 · ISO 6330 + ISO 5077 |
| Spirality / torque | Whether side seams twist after washing | AATCC 179 |
| Pilling | Pilling grade after abrasion | ASTM D3512 / D4970 · ISO 12945 |
| Colorfastness to laundering | Fading and staining after washing | AATCC 61 · ISO 105-C06 |
| Crocking | Color rub-off, dry and wet | AATCC 8 · ISO 105-X12 |
| Fiber content | Labeled by weight percentage; bamboo must be labeled as e.g. “rayon made from bamboo” | FTC Textile Act |
Where do streetwear builds usually start?
Common development starting points to align on direction. Final specs are set by sampling and the approved sample.
Heavyweight boxy tee
- Composition
- 100% combed cotton
- Yarn
- 16s ring-spun / compact
- Knit
- Single jersey
- Weight
- 280–300 GSM
- Neckline
- 1×1 rib, wide neck
- Finishing
- Compacting + enzyme, or garment dye
Vintage washed tee
- Composition
- 100% cotton
- Yarn
- 16s / 20s open-end or slub
- Knit
- Single jersey
- Weight
- 220–260 GSM
- Process
- Pigment dye / acid wash / stone wash
- Water-based or crackle print
Premium essential tee
- Composition
- 100% long-staple cotton
- Yarn
- 30s / 40s compact
- Knit
- Single jersey or interlock
- Weight
- 180–200 GSM
- Finishing
- Mercerizing or bio-polish
- Decoration
- Small embroidery
Heavy French terry tee / hoodie
- Composition
- 100% cotton, or 80/20 cotton/poly
- Yarn
- Face yarn 20s–32s, heavier loop yarn
- Knit
- French terry
- Weight
- Tee 300–360 / hoodie 380–450 GSM
- Process
- Garment dye, distressing
- Puff print, embroidery
About these figures
Figures on this page are typical industry ranges for choosing a fabric, not guaranteed values for any order. Our fabrics are knitted and dyed in our family's own mill and dye house; final composition, weight, shrinkage and colorfastness are confirmed by sampling and test reports.
Frequently Asked Questions
For streetwear, heavyweight usually starts around 240 GSM, and 280–300 GSM is the most common range for boxy fits today. Go to 300 GSM and above for a stiff, structured silhouette or a French terry tee. Premium Wear Works knits 180–400 GSM in-house, and the weight is confirmed on your sample.
Yes, but expect a two-tone result: the cotton takes the dye while the polyester stays undyed, which gives a heathered look. For an even, saturated garment-dyed color, choose 100% cotton. We sample the effect before bulk so you can decide.
100% cotton with a clean surface — combed or compact ring-spun — gives DTG the most saturated colors and the sharpest edges. Polyester blends print weaker colors, and brushed or heavily softened surfaces also reduce sharpness.
Combing removes short fibers for a cleaner, stronger yarn. Ring spinning twists fibers continuously into a soft, strong yarn, and compact spinning goes further to cut hairiness. Open-end yarn is spun fast in a rotor — drier and more rugged, which suits vintage-washed heavyweights.
Start with compacted (pre-shrunk) fabric, then grade the pattern for the shrinkage measured on the finished garment — especially for garment-dyed or washed styles. Shrinkage is tested to AATCC 135 or ISO 6330 and confirmed on the sample before bulk.
Only with the right paperwork. The Supima name requires a license, and organic claims need a certified GOTS or OCS chain of custody. In the US, fiber content is also labeled by weight under the FTC Textile Act — bamboo, for example, must be labeled as rayon made from bamboo.
Every spec is quoted individually — you'll hear back within 24 hours and have numbers within 48.
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